| Lucenta Liquid Light Sensitive Silver Chloride Photo Gelatin Emulsion Instruction Manual, How To Make Silver Prints on glass, Ceramic Tiles, Cloth, Canvas, Wood, Metal, Eggs, Stones,Plates, plastic materials. How to make Silver halide coffee art: art on coffee wood, visual art on coffee filter paper, metal coffee and tea spoons and art on glazed ceramic plates. How To Make Your Own Home Made Photographic Paper, How To Coat Liquid Light Sensitive Gelatin Silver Photo Emulsion on a great Variety of Surfaces and Materials. Substrates For Glass, Paper, Glazed Ceramics, Wood, Canvas, Cloth, Metal, Plastics, stones, Sea Shells, Coffee Filter Paper, Coffee Wood, Art On Coffee Spoons, |
|
LUCENTA Silver Emulsion Instruction Manual page 1 Page 2
|
|
|
|
|
|
Longer Storage Life
Than Any Other Silver Emulsion
in its original package, stored in Dried Form under refrigeration ( 5 c or under ) Lucenta will keep in good condition
without fog or degradation for more than 3 years.
SAFE LIGHT:
Dissolve, Melt, Coat and Process the emulsion at least
12 feet from an ordinary 25 w incandescent bulb.
TO KEEP THE WHITES PURE IN YOUR PICTURES
Do not expose emulsion to that light above more than 3 minutes, total time.
Shade the emulsion at all times with your body, or by making portable walls with brown boxes, newspapers, cartons or boards
BRIGHT YELLOW SAFELIGHT IS BEST
work at night and you can use a BRIGHT YELLOW LIGHT
FOR HOURS SAFELY
.
You can make this yellow light by painting an ordinary incandescent 25 w bulb with an oil based yellow paint.
Test How long you can use it and at what distance.
NOTE: for Rapid silver chloride emulsion that you can make yourself with Lucenta Gelatine: You need a darkroom illuminated by red or dark orange light.
All directions and substrates given below apply for this emulsion also.

fig 4 Empty the Contents of the package into the jar with the solvent.
in a way that the emulsion leaves will all be wetted by the solvent.
fig 5. With plastic spoon stir emulsion for 1 full minute. Wet all the leaves.
fig 6. Leave alone in total darkness for about 30 minutes or until the emulsion leaves have absorbed some of the solvent becoming limp and flexible.
if you agitate frequently it will absorb the solvent much faster.

fig 10. After cold soaking and with emulsion as soft as wet noodles, Place emulsion jar in hot water bath at about 40c to 50c. Make sure water level is correct, too much water may cause jar to tip over. In about 10 min. with fre- cuent agitation the gelatin emulsion will melt completely liquefied by the heat.
fig 11. Un dissolved emulsion will settle at the bottom of the jar, probe with your fingers. agitate and continue heat until it has all dissolved. When in all the milky liquid no solids can be found, It is ready to be coated.
fig 12. To coat glass, silver emulsion may be first filtered through a strainer with a fine mesh. If it traps any solids return them to emulsion jar
to be melted. In cold rooms (below 22c) all dishes should be pre-warmed, if not, the silver gelatin emulsion may become too viscous or set into a solid

fig 16. When required for coating the emulsion jar, in the darkroom, is taken out of its light proof container. The chilled emulsion will be a hard solid, part of it can be taken out with a stainless steel spoon. If "all" the emulsion is not to be coated at one time, take out only the portion required, Return the rest to the refrigerator.
fig 17. Melt only the portion of the solid emulsion to be used at the moment. Do this by placing it inside a glass or stainless steel vessel and heating it gently over a hot plate
or better still in a hot water bath ( 40-50c)
fig 18. When the gelatin emulsion becomes liquid without any solid lumps, ( it may take 5-15 min.) apply it on glass, ceramic tiles, paper etc. Keep under 50c. Do not heat more than necessary ( it may change speed if held for over one hour at 50c) coat at: 40 - 45c if room temp is below 22c, and coat at 35 -40c if room temp is above 24 c.)
Cover the emulsion jar if left under heat for a long time to avoid thickening of the emulsion by water or solvent evaporation which occurs much faster with alcoholic dissolutions.
HOW TO DRY OTHER HOME MADE PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIAL COATED WITH LUCENTA

fig 20.Drying home made photo material has always been a problem with liquid emulsions, but that is a thing of the past with Fast Drying Lucenta Silver Chloride gelatin emulsion.
in fig 20 Above is shown how coated material may be dried in about 15-30 minutes. ( in darkroom by safelight)
B: is an ordinary carton box cut in a way to serve as
chamber and walls in which to rest recently coated ceramic tiles shown as: A A A which are submitted to a current of cold air, ( not warm it would melt the emulsion).
This current of air comes from a small fan: C
In this way light sensitive glass or glazed tiles will dry in about 15-20 minutes ( LUCENTA alcoholic dissolution) or in
about: 30 -45 minutes with LUCENTA in an aqueous dissolution.
Instead of tiles and glass, wood boards, or any material
and even paper can be dried. The drying must be conducted right after coating, wait until the gelatin emulsion has set into a gel, so it will not run when the material is set upright.
in the case of paper, it should be clipped to the boxe's walls. After Drying Wait 24 hours before processing, the emulsion will be firmer on the coated material
.
Drying can be effected in the darkroom shading the coated material from direct hit by safelight, or preferably in total darkness. Wait until the emulsions is completely dry before
storing the coated material (in total darkness)
How To Prepare Different Materials
Before Coating with Liquid Silver Photo Emulsion,
see subbing layer compositions in substrates below.
What is a subbing layer or substrate ?
-It is a pre coat given to the material prior to coating with the liquid photo emulsion
.
Why is a pre coat or subbing layer needed ?
-for 3 main reasons as follows:
1) to isolate the emulsion from chemically reactive materials
which may cause fog or stains on storage.
2) To secure good adhesion of the gelatin emulsion to the material.
3)
to cover the color of the material as in the case of LUCENTA WHITE PRIMER given in one of the compositions in the LUCENTA Formulary below.
4) In some cases a sub, pre-coat, or under layer, does all
3 functions mentioned above.
|
|
Saul Bolaños
an Authority in Liquid Silver Emulsion Chemistry.
An Artist and Inventor of Several Novel Printing
Processes, among them Silver Halide Coffee Art.
About his Inventions
See Silver halide Coffee Art
LUCENTA Is a pure gelatin silver chloride light sensitive
photographic emulsion. It has been left color blind so it can be
handled under relatively bright light. It has no silver bromide,
silver iodide or any other silver halide.
IT IS COMPLETELY NON TOXIC and can be handled without
gloves as long as the hands are clean and not contaminated with sodium thiosulfate. (fixer solution)
PRESENTATION:
LUCENTA CHLORIDE Comes in the form of dried, white, thin, small leaves or sheets.
Each Package contains 25, 50 or 100 grams of Dried Emulsion to be dissolved respectively in: 250, 500 or
1000 ml of Solvent.
Safe Materials For Dissolving, Brushing, stirring
and Storing the Uncoated Emulsion in Liquid Form:
Use glass, plastic, wood, rubber or stainless steel only.
Metals that are not noble may cause fog.
Brushes with shiny Chromed Metals are fine, so are natural and
synthetic sponges.
Speed and Contrast:
High Contrast, grade: 3.0 - 4.0 , extremely clean.
Contact speed: 5 to 10 seconds exposure at 25 cms
from a 100w ordinary incandescent light bulb.
Enlarging speed:
exposure: 1 Minute,
2x enlargement, F 3.5, bulb: 200 w
HOW TO DISSOLVE LUCENTA DRY EMULSION
follow the steps in order given by the numbers and figures below

fig 1. In a glass Jar place the required amount of solvent
chosen (see solvents in " Dissolutions " List below)
fig 2. By safelight open emulsion container
(it may differ from the one shown in figure)
fig 3. Take the dry emulsion out of Container or package
have the glass jar (or stainless steel vessel) ready with the solvent.

fig 7. while soaking, the emulsion jar can be placed inside an empty metal food can ( which is light proof) the top of the can
can be made light proof by covering with several folds of tin foil
or black paper.
fig 8. After soaking for 30 min. Agitate the leaves again for 1 minute. the object is to wet the emulsion leaves at all possible points.
fig 9. Leave aside for a few more minutes again in total darkness until the emulsion leaves have become as soft as wet noodles.
HOW TO KEEP LUCENTA SILVER GELATIN EMULSION IN LIQUID FORM

fig 13. Pour the filtered warm silver emulsion against the wall ( to avoid making bubbles) of its final jar or container. Avoid violent shaking.
Wash all dishes with warm water
.
fig 14. If not coated right away, the dissolved liquid gelatin emulsion (without application of heat) will set into a solid gel. If left in this condition without coating it or refrigerating it, IT WILL ONLY LAST A FEW
DAYS before it decomposes and fog may appear. Keep uncoated liquid
silver emulsion under refrigeration. ( even in Fast Drying alcoholic solvents see below))
fig 15. To store at room temperature or under refrigeration you may place the jar of the humid photo emulsion inside the empty food can, as explained above, covered with tin foil or black paper.
HOW TO DRY HOME MADE PHOTOGRAPHIC PAPER MADE WITH LUCENTA SILVER EMULSION

fig 19. Simple and efficient is the drying arrangement made with 3 components found in very home and which can be mounted and dismounted in of matter of seconds, before and after use.
As shown in figure to the right. A. is a wire coat hanger, bent and reshaped in any convenient manner to hold the hair dryer B.
and to hang at the same time from the chair C.
12 to 20 inches directly below the end of
the barrel of hair blower B. the recently coated paper D. is laid down. The current of cool air coming from the air blower or hair dryer will set the gelatine emulsion in a manner that after 5-10 minutes, (although not completely dried) it will be firm enough to take a second coat of liquid silver emulsion.
This second coat after taking another 5 minutes of blown
cool air, will be firm enough to take even a third coat of liquid emulsion. (only necessary with very absorbent papers)
This second, third, or final emulsion coat submitted to the current of blown air will dry in about 10 to 15 minutes.
( with LUCENTA Fast Drying alcoholic dissolution)
When the gelatin silver emulsion coating feels dried to the
touch, the paper may be stored away or processed.
On materials other than fiber paper, It may be necessary to wait 24 hours to process. (better adhesion)
Speed and contrast on some fiber papers is stabilized only after the emulsion has dried, plus 24 hours. For that
reason, even on fiber paper is recommended to wait 24 hrs before processing.
Fiber Paper does not need any pre-coat or substrate.
But you may get more brilliant prints and save on liquid silver emulsion costs if LUCENTA general clear sub is used
as given below.
How To Dissolve
Lucenta Dry Emulsion In
Different Solvents
(see Dissolutions below) |
|
|

SILVER HALIDE COFFEE ART
|
|
|
All the LUCENTA compositions Below
have been worked out at the LUCENTA ™ CAFEGRAFIA ® Labs and have been in use for more than 20 years. They work.
Each composition can be used all by itself or in combination
with one and the other to meet any challenge and requirements for coating LUCENTA ™ liquid light sensitive silver photo emulsions on any material.
Also to make silver halide Coffee Art, for example by filling coffee filter paper with Lucenta white filler below, before making the paper light sensitive.
The Compositions keep indefinitely without refrigeration. The ones containing gelatin, have to be re melted in a hot water bath ( 35 - 45c ) before use.
TO MAKE THE COMPOSITIONS
soak the gelatin in the solvents at room temperature first
for about 30 minutes. Melt the gelatin then in hot water bath and agitate until all ingredients are mixed entirely. In the case where corn starch is used, it will sediment at bottom
of vessel on standing. Agitate to re suspend it every time before use. Do the same with the white primer.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
SOLVENTS for EMULSION
DISSOLUTIONS:
Aqueous " normal " dissolution
Lucenta Dry emulsion.............................25 grams
Room temperature distilled water..............250 ml
aqueous "concentrated" dissolution
Dry Emulsion.........................................25 g
Room temperature water ........................125 ml
fast drying alcoholic dissolution
Dry Emulsion..........................................25 g
room temperature distilled water ............125 ml
ethyl alcohol..........................................125 ml
____________________________________________
You may dissolve lesser amounts of dried
emulsion but keep proportion given above.
___________________________________________________
Aqueous Dissolutions
must be coated as soon as possible, They will spoil in a few
days if kept at room temperature. They can be kept about 4
days under refrigeration before coating if vessel is well covered.
Once coated, the emulsion looses its water, and will keep.
To keep aqueous dissolutions without bio-degradation for two to three weeks under refrigeration, when the gel has set, pour some ethyl alcohol on top so it covers it about an inch above the surface. Pour off alcohol before use, or just take the portion that you need without melting the rest.
alcoholic dissolutions
Can be kept uncoated in liquid form at room temperature
without spoiling for years. However,
the emulsion will gain more speed in a couple of weeks or so,
To keep its speed constant, Keep under refrigeration.
No need to freeze it, just between 1-10c will keep for years.
But it is recommended to coat it before a year.
-Note that Lucenta dry emulsion takes a lot longer to dissolve
in
alcoholic dissolutions than in aqueous ones.
This dissolution is apt for FAST DRYING bubble free coatings
and for spraying.
" ethyl alcohol" is distilled from fermented sugar and is the
type people drink.
Aqueous "Concentrated " Dissolutions
Are to be used for coating small areas when
the emulsion is wanted to set quickly so it will not run.
small irregular shaped surfaces like eggs, sea shells, small
stones, etc. Can be coated very effectively.
If used on large areas (especially in cold wheat her below 22c)
it will set into a solid before it has time to spread.
the same may be said for alcoholic "concentrated"
dissolutions which should be applied only with a brush in thin
coats. If left too thick, the fixer may not completely fix it.
------------------------------------------------------------------
emulsion dissolutions above are 10% in emulsion concentration, good viscosity to spread on small areas as large as 4x5 inches But too viscous to spread rapidly on larger areas like 8x10 inches on which the gelatin will thicken prematurely on cold weather.
For coating larger areas than 4x5 inches,
as thinner add about 20%
of distilled water to any of the above solvents.
|
|
LUCENTA FORMULARY
SUBSTRATES
LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NUMBER: 1
use for fiber paper, wood , porous materials and plastics sanded with steel wool . Color and texture of material will be
seen through.
water.................................................................140 ml
ethyl alcohol ....................................................60 ml
potassium alum 5% solution.......................10 ml
glacial acetic acid............................................1 ml
flavorless and colorless food gelatin...........5 grams
ordinary corn starch........................................ 10 grams
____________________________________
LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NUMBER: 2
FOR GLASS AND GLAZED CERAMICS
PART : A
water.................................................................140 ml
ethyl alcohol ....................................................60 ml
potassium alum 5% solution.......................10 ml
glacial acetic acid............................................1 ml
flavorless and colorless food gelatin..........5 grams
PART : B
Flat Light Beer
Use: Mix Before use, PART A : ............. .........4 parts
PART B :........................1 part
____________________________________
LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NUMBER: 3
FOR METALS, GLASS AND SPECIAL APPLICATIONS.
color and texture of material will be seen through.
Sodium Metasilicate............................................1 gram
distilled water.......................................................100 ml
____________________________________
LUCENTA WHITE PRIMER
USE TO FILL POROUS MATERIAL AND TO IMPART A
WHITE GROUND TO DARK COLOR POROUS MATERIALS
water.........................................................................140 ml
ethyl alcohol...............................................................60 ml
glycerine.....................................................................10 ml
white powder calcium carbonate (chalk)..............80 grams
flavorless and colorless food gelatin....................20 grams
____________________________________
LUCENTA CANVAS PRIMER
USE TO MAKE EMULSION ADHERE to ACRYLIC OR OIL PRIMED CANVAS
WATER...............................................................................50 ML
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL ( RUBBING ALCOHOL )......................50 ML
flavorless and colorless food gelatin.........................................5 grams
SOAK GEL IN THE MIXTURE UNTIL IT ABSORBS THE ALCOHOL. melt in
hot water bath, coat canvas with this substrate twice, before coating with emulsion.mixture keeps indefinitely.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
..............................................................................................................
PROCESSING LIGHT
SENSITIVE COATED MATERIAL
1. Before coating with the liquid light sensitive silver emulsion; Pre coat the material with one of the subbing compositions (if necessary) given above and to to the right,
watercolor Fiber Paper does not need any pre coating or subbing layer, it can be coated directly.
2. By SAFELIGHT - bright yellow light ( see above) or at 12 feet from a 25 w incandescent bulb, Coat the material with the gelatin silver emulsion liquefied in a water bath at 40-50c.
3. Dry the coated material (see above) preferably in total darkness. Store the light sensitive in total darkness.
4) Expose by SAFELIGHT by contact with a silver negative
or by projecting the negative image with an enlarger (or slide projector) onto the sensitive surface.
5) Process by SAFELIGHT in the compositions given below, preferably 24 hours after the coating has dried, emulsion will be firmer on the material then.
A- PAPER DEVELOPER:
any clean paper developer like Kodak's dektol diluted with 2 parts water. Adjust exposure so the image develops within 20 - 45 seconds. 30 seconds is normal.
B- ACID STOP BATH
Use a 1:250 glacial acetic acid stop bath during 3o seconds.
( not stronger, emulsion may leave support if too strong, change bath frequently to avoid yellow stains)
C- FIXER
Use a hardening fixer ( powder type)
during 10 minutes with frequent agitation. Do not overwork this
fixer to avoid yellow and brown patches appearing in the pictures with time. Use only fresh fixer as a last bath for important work that you want your grandchildren too see.
D- WASHING
Wash the material for 15 - 60 minutes, each work in its own
individual tray to avoid damage to the emulsion. Do not use violent water jets. Wash carefully preferably in 6 changes of still clean water, each change lasting 5 minutes is enough for 90% of all materials.
E- DRYING THE IMAGES
Dry naturally or with a current of cool air. Hot air applied to the still swollen with water gelatin image may mel the gelatin emulsion.
DEVELOPER FOR WARM BROWN TO SEPIA TONES
working paper developer..............................................1000 ml
add, potassium bromide..............................................2 grams
For sepias, Give double the normal exposure time given for black tones with normal developer. Developer time with potassium bromide may be anywhere from 1 to 5 minutes or more depending on exposure. The more exposure and longer development times, the warmer the tone. Any where from warm black to sepia and Red tones ( even yellow tones ) are possible with LUCENTA SILVER CHLORIDE GELATIN SILVER EMULSION.
|
|
Pre coats below are needed for gelatin emulsions to adhere to glass and glazed ceramics, metals, etc.
Also to isolate the silver emulsion so it will not contact chemically active materials like most metals.
In some cases also to hide the color of the material.
HOW TO COAT GLASS AND GLAZED
CERAMICS WITH LIQUID SILVER EMULSION
( see also figures below)
By Normal Room Light wash glass or glazed ceramic tiles with detergent. rinse, drain and dry. Cover once with the mixture below, drain excess. Make sure all of the surface is covered, if not sure, flow sub mixture a second time.
Stand the plate or material upright to dry naturally or by current of cold air. After sub has dried, coat with emulsion.
LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO: 2 ..............................................1 PART
FLAT LIGHT BEER................................................................4 PARTS
The mixed sub keeps several weeks under refrigeration. After subbing ,Coat with Lucenta silver emulsion and process preferably after 48 hrs. But if done carefully the plate can be processed immediately after drying ( with hardening fix).
HOW TO COAT BARE METAL
WITH SILVER EMULSION
color and texture of metal will be seen through
Brush the bare, clean, metal's surface thinly and evenly with
LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO: 3 and Dry.
Now brush on top of the first coat quickly with only one pass of the brush charged with:
LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO: 2 ( part A only )
Brush quickly with clear sub no: 2 with only one pass of the brush to avoid erasing the sub no:3, which will occur if the brush persists on the same area of application. after drying of the first coat, now you can apply the second coat of clear sub no: 2, thicker and with no danger of erasing sub no:3
Failure of utterly covering the metal with clear sub no: 2 will result in black spots caused either by the emulsion chemically reacting with the metal or by the sodium thiosulphate ( in the fixer solution ) attacking the metal.
Without sub no:3, Clear sub no: 2 will not adhere to the metal.
if emulsions floats off the metal during development, sub no:3 was not well applied or was left too thin. Remedy: apply 2 coats of sub no:3
do this by applying the second only after the first has dried. Apply finally
the 2 coats of clear sub no: 2
as described earlier.
When is wanted to hide the color of the metal:
coat the bare metal with: LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO: 3
Dry and coat with: LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO: 2
Dry and coat with: LUCENTA WHITE PRIMER.
and finally with Lucenta Silver Emulsion
COATING Materials with
LUCENTA white primer
color and texture of material will be covered by white primer
as shown in picture below.
DARK PIECE OF WOOD ( PICTURE ABOVE )
was first primed with 4 coats of Lucenta white primer ( as given above)
before coating with the liquid photo emulsion and making the picture.
Use this primer when a white ground is wanted for maximum sharpness and image contrast and to fill very porous materials like coffee filter paper, plain cloth or wood,
Also to paint with a white ground Dark Color material like black stones, dark paper, dark ceramics, etc.
Brush the white primer once on both sides of the material
when necessary (for example on coffee filter paper) dry.
and apply a second coat if pores are not totally filled or in the case of a dark ground
it is still visible. Coat with the silver emulsion, dry and process.
HOW TO COAT PLASTIC MATERIALS
color and texture of material will be seen through
Matt the plastic first by sanding it with fine steel wool. Sand the surface utterly and entirely. sanding left to right, then top to bottom and finally diagonally. Coat after with one or two coats of
LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO: 1
After drying, coat with LUCENTA silver emulsion. Process preferably
24 hours after emulsion has dried on the coated material.
when it is wanted to hide the color of the plastic, after sanding cover with: LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO: 1
Dry and coat with: LUCENTA WHITE PRIMER.
Dry, and coat with: LUCENTA silver emulsion.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
COAT LIQUID SILVER EMULSION WITH A BRUSH ONLY. NO OTHER METHOD IS RECOMENDED
Silver emulsion is Best Applied with the softest hair brush you can find. TO SERVE AS AN EXAMPLE HERE IS HOW I COAT STONES
First coat: very thin and even. Place STONE in front of a current of cold air from a fan ( figs 19-20 ) After about 5 minutes, second coat is applied also very thin, Dry a little again in front of the fan for another 5 min. and apply a third even and thin coat of emulsion with care as not leave thick pools of emulsion which will not be dissolved completely in the fixing bath,
" THICK UNEVEN POOLS OF EMULSION " This common error is the Number One failure of Liquid Emulsion users. Unfixed silver is still light sensitive and will darken on exposure to light sooner or later, appearing as dark blotches or spots, in a period of 24 -72 hours for bad cases or worse still after a few months or years when you have no longer power to correct it.
For this reason when coating all materials I do not flow the emulsion on it or dip it in a pool of emulsion; as recommended by some liquid emulsion manufacturers, That is Fatally catastrophic to say the least. Brush is much safer, and entirely satisfactory, it leaves thin and even layers that will fix rapidly and completely in about 5 minutes in the thiosulfate fixer.( But leave a total time of 10 minutes in the fixer. The extra 5 minutes are needed for the hardener in the fixer to harden the gelatin in the emulsion fully so it can stand careful washing without damage.)
The Second Fatal Most Common Error is overworking the fixing bath. If you want your grand children to see your silver prints:
always use a fresh (unused) fixer as your last bath. I repeat: For important Work
" USE USED FIXER AS A FIRST BATH: 5 MINUTES, BUT THE SECOND 5 MINUTE BATH HAS TO BE FRESH UNUSED FIXER. "
HOW TO MAKE PHOTOGRAPHIC GLASS PLATES
OR COAT GLASS AND TILES WITH LIQUID PHOTO EMULSION BY FLOWING
IS RECOMENDED ONLY FOR MATERIALS WITH A FLAT AND EVEN SURFACE LIKE GLASS AND CERAMIC TILES, WHICH CAN BE PLACED IN A LEVELED SURFACE INMEDIATELY AFTER COATING AND BEFORE THE EMULSION HAS SET, Below a visual example:
fig. 39 A pool of liquid emulsion is gently poured on the center of a glass plate or glazed ceramic tile. Use at least 10 ml of the emulsion for an area 6x6 inches.
( dilute the emulsion with 20% more water
if necessary to comfortably spread the 10 ml in the given area)
fig. 40- 41 The liquid emulsion warmed to about 35 - 40c, is made to spread to all four corners of the glass plate. Use your fingers or a soft brush.
fig. 42 Before the gelatin emulsion sets into a solid, the coated plate shown as AA in the figure, is placed on top of a large glass plate which has been previously leveled with a spirit leveler very carefully. Here the emulsion still on its liquid phase will spread evenly all throughout the surface of the glass, giving an even emulsion layer of known thickness.
For rapid production the Large Leveled Plate is chilled with ice water, the cold from the plate will transfer to the gelatin emulsion on the glass and in about 2-3 minutes, it will set the liquid gelatin emulsion into a solid, when this occurs the coated plate can be stood upright to dry without the coated emulsion running.
This is the only way I recommend to coat liquid silver photo emulsions by flowing.
In fact, if the quantity is no more than 12 plates, I coat glass plates and tiles with several thin coats applied with a brush as described above for coating stones.
HOW TO COAT 100 SHEETS OF WATERCOLOR
PAPER IN A FEW HOURS WITH LIQUID SILVER PHOTO EMULSION |
|
|
THE PAPER
For important work I use only WATERCOLOR ( 100% cotton fiber) PAPER.
which is available in artist's supply stores in sheets sizes 11x15, 18x24,
22x32 inches an more. Also in rolls as wide as 50 inches by 10 yards long.
It is also Available in different finishes and textures like ROUGH or SMOOTH
(cold pressed) which is the one to use to get maximum detail in the image when contact printing from negatives.
Weights available: thick and heavy 140 lbs - 300 g/m
and a thinner 90 lbs - 185 g/m.
Any weight of these papers can stand days of washing without distortion or tearing. Their permanency is well established as Over 500 years. They were first manufactured and used in Europe before Columbus discovered America.
All of these 100% cotton fiber papers have a great " Body " which will dry
flat without curling. Most other papers will have to be given counter coats of clear sub no: 1 on the back to suppress the tendency of curling.
Watercolor 100% cotton fiber Paper can be coated directly with silver emulsion, but I prefer to give them a couple coats of
LUCENTA clear sub no: 1 to save on emulsion and keep maximum
image details above the surface of the paper.
I usually hand coat and dry 100 sheets 11x15 in. in a few hours.
I start coating in the evening, I use a LUCENTA AQUEOUS (not alcoholic) Dissolution because each paper is hanged to dry naturally. I dilute the emulsion in aqueous dissolution given above with 20% of water to make it thinner so it can spread easy on larger areas.
After first coat of emulsion, each sheet is hanged while other sheets are being coated, By the time sheet number 100 is coated with its first coat, the emulsion coat on sheet number 1 is dry or almost dry, and ready to take a second emulsion coat. A third emulsion coat is given if necessary.
All the coated sheets dry naturally before daylight comes, they are then gathered and packed emulsion to emulsion inside plastic bags which are sealed to block all entrance of air, light and humidity.
If the paper is going to be used in the next few months, It is kept at room temperature. If no it is stored in the refrigerator under 10c, where I know they will keep in good condition for many years.
I know They will keep because: 1) the paper is pure 2) they were not fogged by safelight 3) they were FULLY DRY when they were packed 4) they were sealed to keep them from exposure to light, air, and humidity, and because
LUCENTA HAS A LONGER SHELF LIFE THAN ANY OTHER EMULSION.
|
|
To make your own photographic paper
Regularly it is necessary to have a heating plate as shown in the figure where A. is the heating plate. The temperature can be accurately regulated by thermostat B. constantly to about 45c.
The melted emulsion is kept in a glass jar or stainless steel vessel which sits inside water held by a metal pot C. This arrangement is used for keeping silver emulsion and subs in a constant liquid condition automatically for coating requiring very little or no attention at all.
COATING THE PAPER WITH SUBBING LAYERS
AND LIQUID SILVER EMULSION
1) APPLY LUCENTA CLEAR SUB NO 1 ( 2 coats) and dry.
2) APPLY LUCENTA SILVER LIQUID EMULSION
.
HOW TO GET VARIABLE CONTRAST
WITH LUCENTA LIQUID PHOTO EMULSION
FOR MAXIMUM CONTRAST AND MAXIMUM BLACKS, GRADE 4.0:
Apply 3 to 4 thin and even coats of silver emulsion
FOR CONTRAST ABOUT GRADE 3.0:
Apply 2 even and well distributed coats of emulsion, speed will be about 50% less than the speed given by 3-4 coats.
FOR A LITTLE HIGHER THAN NORMAL CONTRAST GRADE 2.5
Dilute Lucenta silver emulsion I:I with a 10% gelatin solution.
Apply 3 thin coats. Speed will be 50- 100% lower.
The diluting food gelatin must be colorless and flavorless in sheet
or leave form only ( Do not use Powder gelatin )
COATING CAPACITY
Each 100 grams of Dry LUCENTA SILVER CHLORIDE PHOTO EMUlSION
will coat about 100 sheets of Paper size 20x25 cms ( 8x10 in)
100 gms of Dry LUCENTA diluted 1:1 with plain gelatin for use will coat
about 200 8x10 sheets
Copyright 2005 by Saul Bolaños |
|
|
|
Buy 100 grams of Lucenta Dried Emulsion To Make 1 liter
for
$ 99 USD
Plus Shipping.
For info write:
info on Lucenta Dried emulsion
|
See Step by step instructions
on how to make your own Ultra Rapid Silver
Chloride Gelatine Emulsion
at Home in less than 45 Minutes !
250 ml (half of pint)
will cost you less than $ 15 USD
see Photo Emulsion How to Make it Yourself
|
|